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Thai cookbook review & recipes
Written by Julian Bynoe   
Friday, 01 January 1999

The Vegetarian Table - ThailandSurrounded by many influences, including the state religion of Buddhism, it's easy to see why Thailand has remained, more or less, a people and culture entrenched in its vegetarian regimen.

Nature's abundance of vegetables, fruit, fungi, bamboo, lotus and rice make it easy for the Thais to maintain a somewhat meat-free existence.
The Thai example is at its strongest in late October when the small southwest Andaman Sea isle of Phuket, holds its' world-famous annual Vegetarian Festival. The focus of the event is a ten-day vegetarian fast to appease their Chinese and Malay ancestors.

The Vegetarian Table: Thailand by Jacki Passmore is another installment of fine cookbooks produced by Raincoast Books. Steven Rothfeld's photography adds ambience to the recipes written by author Jacki Passmore. A much appreciated touch is the metric conversion table and glossary of ingredients.

While it's true that The Vegetarian Table: Thailand does contain some seafood by-products, Passmore gives vegetarian alternatives and combinations of ingredients that are easy to make or find.

This book worth picking up, even for vegans, as each recipe has something to offer and they are quite delicious!

The traditional pad Thai dish and tempeh stir-fry have such a wonderful flavour, that they bring a little bit of Thailand to your kitchen.

Pad Gratiam Prik Thai Tempeh

(Stir-Fried Tempeh with Garlic And Pepper)

12 ounces tempeh or firm tofu
1 medium-large yellow onion
1 1/2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 large, hot fresh green chili, seeded and sliced
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into matchstick pieces
4 ounces spinach or water spinach, stems removed
2 tablespoons vegetarian mushroom oyster sauce
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1/2 cups water or vegetable stock
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
Salt to taste
1-3 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds

Cut tempeh or tofu into 3/4-inch cubes. Cut off the top and bottom from onion, then cut through stem end, into narrow wedges and separate the layers.

Heat oil in wok or large skillet over high heat. When very hot, add tempeh or tofu and onion and stir-fry for 3 1/2 minutes. You will need to turn and stir constantly, but be careful you do not break up tempeh too much.

When ready, the onion will have softened and be slightly browned on the edges.

Add garlic, chili and bell pepper strips and continue to stir-fry over heat for another 2 minutes.

Add spinach, vegetarian oyster and soy sauces. Cook briefly, then pour in water or stock and add pepper and salt. Continue to cook over heat until green vegetable wilts, about 2 minutes.

Transfer to a serving dish, scatter sesame seeds and serve.
Serves 4-6

Vegetarian Pad Thai Noodles

12 ounces rice stick noodles (sen lek)
8 ounces firm tofu
1/3 cup peanut or vegetable oil
1 cup sliced celery
3-inch piece large carrot, cut into matchsticks
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons tamerind concentrate or 1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1-1 1/2 tablespoons medium-light palm sugar or soft brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons fermented tofu, mashed with its brine
3/4 teaspoon sambal ulek or other chili paste
1 teaspoon sesame oil (optional)
Salt and white pepper to taste
3 scallions, white and green parts chopped
1 1/4 cups bean sprouts
1/2 cup roasted unsalted peanuts, coarsely chopped
Chopped fresh coriander (cilantro) or sliced scallion greens

Place noodles in a bowl, add hot water to cover and let stand for 6-8 minutes to soften, then pour into a colander to drain. Cut tofu into 1/2-inch cubes. Heat oil in a wok or large skillet over heat.

Add tofu cubes and fry, turning frequently until crisp and golden, about 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside on paper towels. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of oil from the pan.

Place pan again over high heat. Add celery and carrots and cook, stirring often until softened, about 2 1/2 minutes. Add garlic, fried tofu and well-drained noodles and stir over heat until each noodle stand is moistened with oil, about 1 1/2 minutes.

In a small bowl, combine tamarind concentrate or lemon juice, soy sauce, sugar (to taste), fermented tofu and chili paste. Pour over noodles and add sesame oil, if using. Continue to stir over heat, tossing, lifting and turning noodles until evenly seasoned.

Check seasoning and adjust to taste, plus add salt and a generous sprinkle of pepper. Add scallions and bean sprouts, mix in well and allow them to cook for about 45 seconds.

Lastly, stir in peanuts, then transfer to serving dish or 4 large shallow bowls, garnish with coriander or scallion greens.

NOTE: Most rice noodle sticks come in packs weighing about 14 ounces. Use the whole pack, if you prefer, adjusting the seasonings to taste. Leftover pad Thai re-heats well in a microwave oven.
Serves 4

The Vegetarian Table: Thailand (160 pages) retail for $34.95 and is available from amazon.ca

 

From the January / February 1999 issue of Lifelines.